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The Water, the Paddy, and Everything Between Us and Town
I walk down to the jetty most evenings, just before the light goes soft. It's maybe forty steps from the veranda, past the coconut stump where the dog...
Read MoreI walk down to the jetty most evenings, just before the light goes soft. It's maybe forty steps from the veranda, past the coconut stump where the dog...
Read MoreThere is no road to this house. That is the first thing you need to know, and it is either the best or the worst part of coming here, depending on how...
Read MoreThe mist sits on the lake until about half past six, and then the first diesel engine starts somewhere off to the east. A vallam heading to the market...
Read MoreLast week a guest asked me, halfway through her second cup of tea, whether the food was included or if they should plan to eat out in Alleppey town. I...
Read MoreA guest asked me last week, standing on the jetty with her bag still on her shoulder, whether we had a pool. I said no. She looked at the water all around...
Read MoreI walk down to the jetty most evenings around six. It's about forty steps from the veranda, past the coconut stump where the kingfisher sits, and by then...
Read MoreRain on a tin roof has its own grammar. Slow at first, then a steady drumroll, then something closer to applause. I'm writing this on the veranda with a...
Read MoreThe mist sits on the lake until about seven. Before that, you only hear things — a kingfisher, the drip off the roof, and then the first diesel engine of...
Read MoreLast week a guest stood at the end of our jetty at 6:40 in the morning, coffee going cold in her hand, and said, "I keep waiting for the noise to start."...
Read MoreThe first thing almost every guest says when the boat cuts its engine is some version of this: "It's so quiet." Then they stand there on the jetty...
Read MoreEvaans Casa — Homestay near Backwaters
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